Cold Process Soap
Recipes Page One
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Note! You are
advised to double-check the formulation of all recipes before
making any of them. Recipes using sodium or potassium hydroxide
should be run through a lye calculator before
use.
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Soapnuts Newbie Beginner
Soapmaking Recipe by Peg Frye
first best recipe
you can make is Castile.
it has all pourable items and the soap is
actually
really good for your skin..
Castile
40 oz olive oil
5 oz. lye
14 oz water.
mix at 100 degrees, hand stir for the first 15
minutes, then start
zapping with your stick blender.
this soap can take a lonnnnnnnnnnnng
time to trace, so
be patient and watch the changes before your
eyes.
if you want to add goodies, do it at trace,
having
reserved some of the 40 oz in a lil dish to soak
them
in before adding to the soap.
"Slice of Summer" (Cucumber
Soap)/©Camille Pratt
15 ounces Canola Oil
30 ounces Coconut Oil
27 ounces Olive
Oil
21 ounces Palm Oil
5 ounces Shea Butter
13.75 ounces of lye
20 ounces of rain water
16 ounces of pureed cucumber (peels 'n all!)
Mix lye and water. Cool to 90°.
Pureed cukes (this will be approx.
2-3 large cukes).
Heat oils to 90°.
Mix lye solution and oils, blend well, add pureed cukes.
Bring to
light trace, add fragrance of your choice (I used
Sweetcakes
Econocuke - at a 1% usage rate).
Bring to heavy
trace.
Pour in mold.
Leave it alone. :)
Notes: Even in very hard water it has lots of lather, very creamy and
is very
soothing to skin. Uncolored, it is a very lovely pale ivory,
slightly
translucent. No GSE (Grapefruit Seed Extract) needed.
If you chose to modify
this recipe by subbing other oils or butters,
it will not be remotely the same
unbelievably wonderful soap.
~~~~~~~*~~~~*~~~*~~*~*~*~~*~~~*~~~~*~~~~~~~
Wild Iris Botanicals
Soaps & Sundries
'SweetPeas TM' Baby Line
'Bath Confections
TM' Luxury Bathing
Line
~~~~~~~*~~~~*~~~*~~*~*~*~~*~~~*~~~~*~~~~~~~
"Spoil You
Stupid"
{{{{{If you have never been spoiled
stupid, you have never been properly spoiled. ; )
<snort!>}}}}}
Copyright 2001 Camille Pratt
4 oz Avocado
Oil (8.33%)
14 oz Coconut
Oil (29.17)
12 oz Palm
Oil (25.00)
2
oz Shea Butter (4.17)
10 oz Soybean
Oil (20.83)
6 oz Sunflower Oil
(12.50)
6.75 oz
lye
(7%)
18 oz water
Observe all the usual safety precautions
Mix lye and water. Cool to 90 to 100* (don't make yourself crazy,
just get close!)
Heat oils to 90 to 100*.
Mix lye solution and oils, blend well.
Bring to light trace, add fragrance of your choice (I used Poozart
Sandalwood Vanilla FO at a 1% usage rate). Bring to medium trace.
Pour in mold.
Leave it alone. : )
Notes: If this does not lather like crazy, spoil you stupid, and
condition beyond imagining, do get back with me. ; )
Nicolle's basic
soap
*This makes a small 2 pound batch of soap.
Castor oil 2
ounces
Cocoa butter 4
ounces
Coconut Oil 4
ounces
Olive oil 12
ounces
Palm oil 10 ounces
lye 4.3
ounces
water 12
ounces
Carefully measure out the water in a heatproof container. Set it
aside. In a separate container measure 4.3 ounces of lye.
Put on rubber gloves and safety glasses. (The next step is best
done in a well ventilated area.. outside is best).
Add the lye
to the water very very slowly and stir at the same time. Stir
slowly until the lye is dissolved. PLEASE be very careful with
this mixture because it gets very hot. Set it aside. Weigh out all
of the oils and empty them into a stainless steal or enameled pan.
Put the pan on low heat until all of the oils melt. Let the oils
and lye/water mixture cool until they are around 98-100 degrees.
Safety glasses and gloves need to be on for this next step. When
they are the same temp (between 98-100) slowly start adding while
stirring with a wooden spoon) the lye/water to the oils.
Stir…Stir… Stir. Keep stirring for about 10 minutes (vigorously)
until you get it
thick enough that it traces. A trace is when
the soap mixture becomes thick enough that you can design on the
surface. At this point you can add any scent, color, grains or
dried herbs. Mix well and pour into a plastic mold. Wrap the mold
in a blanket and unmold after 24 hours. You soap will be ready to use
after 3-4 weeks of curing.
Jan Hanson
Watermelon Shampoo Bar
J'son
Creations
12 oz. Coconut
Oil
19 oz. Olive
Oil
12 oz. Castor Oil
16 oz.
water
6 oz. lye
Pour when both mixtures have reached 100 degrees. When you see
a trace, add 1 oz. Watermelon FO. Pour into mold. This will take
longer than normal to set up. Leave in the mold for 2 or 3 days.
Cut when firm. Cure for about 6 weeks.
Jan Hanson-Shampoo Bar
II
1 # 8 oz Castor Oil
1 # Coconut
2 # 6 oz Olive oil
8 oz Palm Kernel Flakes
Superfat at 5%..........11.85 oz (336 gm) of lye
1 # 12 oz
water
This sets up faster than the old one and seems to be a harder bar
Editor's Note: # stands for pound(s)
Lori's Big Batch of
Soap
40 oz coconut oil
40 oz olive oil
64 oz soybean oil (veggie
shortening)
20 oz sodium hydroxide (lye)
5 1/2 cups water
I combine fats and lye at 90 degrees. Add 4 to 6 oz of
fragrance
and 1/2 cup ground botanicals at trace. Usually
traces within
20 minutes because of the size of the batch.
Mango
Soap
10 oz coconut oil
4 oz shea butter
2 oz almond oil
6 fl oz
water
2.44 oz lye
1/2 oz of Mango FO
Rhonda's Goat Milk Soap
Recipe!
Hello! Here is a great recipe for goat milk
soap...works every time!
42 oz olive oil
28 oz
coconut oil
18 oz palm oil
12.7 oz Red Devil Lye
33 oz goat milk (or
buttermilk can be used too )
1 cup ground
oatmeal
4 Tbsp. raw honey
fats and oil temp: 92
degrees
lye/milk temp: 92
degrees
cure for 4-6 weeks
Even with no FO added, this soap still smells like honey and oatmeal 4
weeks later. Enjoy
Kitchen Hands ( 4lbs of
oils)
28oz olive oil
16 of palm oil
16 oz coconut oil
4oz cocoa
butter
26oz triple strength brewed coffee ( chilled )
9.1 oz
lye
1oz vanilla FO
It smells awesome. But it smells a bit
like my first attempt at kitchen soap and after curing the Vanilla scent
really came out. But right now it is chocolate and rich and such a
pretty color too. I think the vanilla wontbe so strong this time
because I added cocoa butter to this recipe and the first time the
recipe was 1/2 the size, but still had 1oz vanilla fo. It is really nice
and soft for the hands :)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Variations
for Soap Recipes
- Replace water with your favorite beer, for BEER
soap. (caution: make sure to use FLAT beer, add lye slowly)
- Replace
water with pureed, cold, fresh cucumber for CUCUMBER soap
- Replace
water with favorite herbal tea (make a very strong tea!)
- Calendula
petals. . . Add half a loosely packed cup to the olive oil, and let it
'marinate for a week before using.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Seaweed
Soap
6 oz Coconut oil
1 oz Grapeseed oil
34oz Olive oil
15oz less
2Tbl water
5.49oz Lye
Make Soap as usual...
Soaked 2 sheets
nori (green Seaweed used to make sushi) in 2 tlb of the water added 1
Tlb Grapeseed oil to that...added this @ trace with 1oz
combined
apple and cinnamon Fo...poured into 3" PCV pipe... 24 hours
later unmolded and sliced...have the most beautiful green flecked
soap... great lather...smells wonderful...was thinking it would be great
with pear scent.
Basic Vegetable
Soap
5 c. 4 oz. Olive oil
2 c. 1 oz. Coconut oil
3 c. Vegetable
shortening (Crisco)
10 3/4 oz. Lye
4 c. Water
TEMPS: 95-98
4
1/2 tsp. of essential oils at trace
Rita Richards
OATMEAL COMPLEXION
SOAP
24 ounces olive oil
24 ounces coconut oil
38 ounces vegetable shortening
12 ounces sodium hydroxide (lye)
32 ounces fresh water
8 ounces powdered oatmeal (whirl it in a blender)
temps between 95
and 100
Camille's Sure-Fire, No Way You
Can Lose, Castile Soap Recipe! ;)
(30:70
lye:water ratio) Camille Pratt 2000
48 ounces olive oil
6 ounces lye
14 ounces water(this is
not a mistake, trust me)
***Observe all standard safety procedures***
*Add lye to water, stirring until all lye is dissolved,
set aside
to cool to 90* to 100*
*Heat oils to 90* to 100*
*Slowly pour lye
solution into oils, stirring the whole time.
*Stir to thin trace,
either by hand or by stick blender or both! ;)
*Once you have reached
thin trace, add any FOs/EOs/Botanicals you wish
- or
nothing!.
*At medium trace, pour into prepared mold cover with
cardboard, and
toss a towel on top to provide insulation (if you
don't use wood molds
- I do)
*Unmold when soap is no longer warm
(18 to 24+ hours) and when pressed
with your finger, a slight
indention remains.
*Cut Castile right away, as it will harden to a
point where you cannot
cut it.
* Minimum 8 week cure time
Low lather, gentle soap - suitable for even sensitive skin. :
)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Notes to you:
In
a 3# soap recipe (I just measure mine in # of oil for ease),
the
typical recipe is fine. But it has those 'little glitches' in it
I wanted
to work out. So I refigured my lye:water ratio and
(remember: a
30:70 is not an extreme ratio at all, in fact it is
quite modest and
very 'mainstream', but will in no way decrease cure
time!)
found the castile traced quicker (but not
too
quickly, you don't want to turn soapmaking into a fast food
chain),
about the rate of 'regular' soap, and at 18 - 24 hours (I
don't
always unmold at 18 - 24, sometimes longer, I make sure it is
no
longer warm AND that it is firm enough to leave a 'slight'
indention
when pressed with the finger tip), it is firm in the mold,
unmolds
with ease, and I cut it right away. Within a few hours
of cutting
and airing, it is quite hard.
All 'glitches' were removed and there is no lessening of
quality,
quality was never compromised. Side by side
comparisons of the 'old'
way and the 'new' way have shown them to be
identical in quality,
longevity, and
mildness.
Camille
Listmom2/List Moderator
Wild Iris Botanicals
Soaps & Sundries
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